Phew

For any general chat and banter.

Moderators: scimjim, Lukeyboy46, Roger Pennington, philhoward, erikscimitardemon

Post Reply
User avatar
toomanysabres
RIP
Posts: 5373
Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2006 1:27 pm
Location: Leatherhead
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 88 times

Phew

Post by toomanysabres » Mon Nov 28, 2016 7:04 pm

Went out to the freezer earlier for something for dinner and I got a faint whiff of a hot electric smell.
Traced it to the air compressor. It was a bit hot around the motor. And it won’t run. DISASTER. :(
Just been out and checked the plug fuse and its OK
Plugged in and powered on and it runs. :D
I used it the other day – or rather a neighbour who wanted to blow over a cleaned up Austin 7 carb and it got left on.
In the summer it just runs when air is down and pumps itself up but in the winter I invariably have to turn its on/off knob a couple of times where it hisses a small loss of pressure before the motor will overcome back pressure.
PHEW.


Now: '62 Sabre 4, '63 Sabre Six, '65 SE4, '00 BMW E38 740i sport.
Prev: '53 ZephyrZodiac, '64 Sabra GT, '68 Elan S3SE, Mk3 Cortina 2000GXL, Mk4 Cortina 2000 Est, 3 SE6a's, 2 SE5a, SE4a Turbo, 1800Ti.
Company: Cav SRi, Cav SRi 130, Honda Concerto 1.6 (yuk)

jag12
RSSOC Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2014 12:04 pm
Location: North Devon
Has thanked: 18 times
Been thanked: 7 times

Re: Phew

Post by jag12 » Tue Nov 29, 2016 12:41 am

Check the start capacitor on the motor suspect it may be getting weak


GTC GOC383W. GTE 6a PFG814R. SSI 1600. B46SNX

User avatar
peter freeman
RSSOC Member
Posts: 9959
Joined: Thu Aug 31, 2006 12:12 pm
Location: Newcastle
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 358 times
Contact:

Re: Phew

Post by peter freeman » Tue Nov 29, 2016 8:39 am

My compressor has a "stall" point when hot and the piston is at a certain position the motor cannot cope and the trip goes. I have to turn the flywheel by hand ( not literally ) and then it runs ok again.



User avatar
toomanysabres
RIP
Posts: 5373
Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2006 1:27 pm
Location: Leatherhead
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 88 times

Re: Phew

Post by toomanysabres » Tue Nov 29, 2016 8:45 am

OK will do but its been like that 'forever' in the cold. I get the feeling it has to struggle against cold oil or a tight cylinder. Its the first time I had a no go situation so luckily there must be a self-resetting overheat switch.


Now: '62 Sabre 4, '63 Sabre Six, '65 SE4, '00 BMW E38 740i sport.
Prev: '53 ZephyrZodiac, '64 Sabra GT, '68 Elan S3SE, Mk3 Cortina 2000GXL, Mk4 Cortina 2000 Est, 3 SE6a's, 2 SE5a, SE4a Turbo, 1800Ti.
Company: Cav SRi, Cav SRi 130, Honda Concerto 1.6 (yuk)

User avatar
Dennis Nicholas
RSSOC Member
Posts: 664
Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2007 1:22 pm
Location: Devon
Has thanked: 49 times
Been thanked: 32 times

Re: Phew

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Tue Nov 29, 2016 10:10 am

The start/run capacitor is more critical than we usually realise. It will age and its value in micro farads will change which gives a change in the current in the motor eventually leading to burn out of motor through overheating. It is good to get your old capacitor checked using a meter which measures capacitance........this can be done by a firm that services any equipment that uses compressors e.g. milking machines, fridges (commercial fridge companies), proper old fashion compressor companies. they will have a meter and will usually check for free if they stock and sell the bits.......or the meters are not very expensive.
It is worth stripping down, checking seals, and cleaning out the non-return valve which gets very mucky and therefore leaks causing the machine to run more often. Beware when taking the end cap off that there is ZERO pressure otherwise the piston/seal/spring/ball bearing will fly across the room and be lost forever.....don't ask how I know!!. Also the main control switch/valve that switches motor off at a settable pressure and opens the compressor side decompression valve so motor starts with no compression on the compressor. Mine has a plastic tube that runs from the non return valve to the on/off/pressure switch that is on the compressor side of the non return valve for decompressing that side from valve to piston. The on/off switch is screwed into the air reservoir via a hollow pipe which allows air into the switch to work the max pressure turn off switch.
There is usually a cut out switch which has heat sensitive contacts - usually on the motor terminal box -.....i.e. too much motor current = heat up of contacts and spring open. Press in button to reset when cooled down but check why overheating. If that switch is a cheaper variety the contacts may be just poorly riveted to the wires/terminal metal strips and at these points corrosion and working loose causes higher resistance and heating at that junction and hence the metal contact trips so cut out - cure = run solder around rivet joints (and any other wire joints in area).
There are several good internet sites where you can find good easily understood "how it works" explanations......it is well worth reading up on these to understand how it all works which makes diagnosis and fixing much easier.


Dennis Nicholas(RSSOC)
1980 GTC Trafalgar Blue, 2010 basic Skoda Yeti (petrol), Austin 7s, Rileys.

User avatar
Dennis Nicholas
RSSOC Member
Posts: 664
Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2007 1:22 pm
Location: Devon
Has thanked: 49 times
Been thanked: 32 times

Re: Phew

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Tue Nov 29, 2016 10:52 am

Toomanysabres
At first your post had me bemused, thinking you were referring to the compressor in your freezer! - blowing out A7 carb using the freezer compressor??? Then I twigged....lol.
There are actually some good internet sites - American inevitably - showing how to convert a fridge/freezer compressor for use as a very useful tool for small workbench jobs blowing out dirt etc. not much work and cheap.


Dennis Nicholas(RSSOC)
1980 GTC Trafalgar Blue, 2010 basic Skoda Yeti (petrol), Austin 7s, Rileys.

User avatar
toomanysabres
RIP
Posts: 5373
Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2006 1:27 pm
Location: Leatherhead
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 88 times

Re: Phew

Post by toomanysabres » Tue Nov 29, 2016 11:00 am

I noticed that unnecessary verbiage after posting but I couldn't be arsed to edit it. :D :D :D :D
On the other hand, you might have wondered that if I smelled a funny smell inside the house then all hell would be going on in the garage and it wouldn't have been smell but fire engine horns.


Now: '62 Sabre 4, '63 Sabre Six, '65 SE4, '00 BMW E38 740i sport.
Prev: '53 ZephyrZodiac, '64 Sabra GT, '68 Elan S3SE, Mk3 Cortina 2000GXL, Mk4 Cortina 2000 Est, 3 SE6a's, 2 SE5a, SE4a Turbo, 1800Ti.
Company: Cav SRi, Cav SRi 130, Honda Concerto 1.6 (yuk)

Oldconn
RSSOC Member
Posts: 1643
Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 1:09 pm
Location: Haute-Saône,France
Has thanked: 61 times
Been thanked: 90 times

Re: Phew

Post by Oldconn » Tue Nov 29, 2016 1:31 pm

Mine is always reluctant to run in extremely cold weather, so I make sure it is always turned off. A neighbour told me its a good idea to drain the sump and refill with lighter oil in winter .


"When I grow up, I want to be me"
-Kermit Weeks
Current: SE6A; 998 Mini.Previous: Morris Minor,Ford8, Cortinas Mk1 &2,MG Midget 1932,Morgan 3W 1934,Lagonda Rapier,Honda S800, Austin Maxi,Citroen GSA, Riley ElfMk2,Peugeot 505,Rover 420 SDI

User avatar
guybetts
RSSOC Member
Posts: 381
Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:04 pm
Location: Berkshire
Has thanked: 32 times
Been thanked: 9 times

Re: Phew

Post by guybetts » Tue Nov 29, 2016 7:22 pm

Dennis Nicholas wrote:Toomanysabres
At first your post had me bemused, thinking you were referring to the compressor in your freezer! - blowing out A7 carb using the freezer compressor??? Then I twigged....lol.
There are actually some good internet sites - American inevitably - showing how to convert a fridge/freezer compressor for use as a very useful tool for small workbench jobs blowing out dirt etc. not much work and cheap.
I made a compressor for a modellers airbrush using a fridge compressor for my A level Design and Tech project in the 1980's :) Still got it somewhere buried in the garage..


GTC Registrar

1966 Straight Six Coupe, 1981 GTC
Previous: SS1 1300 (C230 EPP) & 18ti (D993 WRX)

Post Reply

Return to “Non-Technical Discussion”