GTC Vert Soleil

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DARK STAR
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Post by DARK STAR » Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:20 pm

Back to Vert Soleil while waiting for the post for Dark Star.
I am gradually getting used to the idea that it might be finished :lol:
I have got the choke adjustment somewhere near, goodness knows what the garage had done to it because it was miles out.
Using the car as much as possible confidence is gradually returning and it is rather good.
I am almost tempted to keep it and even persuaded the boss to set foot in it again but she insists one Scimitar has to go.
Logically I should sell Dark Star and keep the comfortable, reasonable, four seater, convertible GTC.
And the Coupé is worth twice as much ... so if anyone comes up with 16 000 euros before I sell the GTC I might be forced to accept 8)

Taking stock, just about the only things that have NOT been replaced, renovated or repaired are
wheels corroded under plastic coating
gearbox tailshaft oil leak
carpets are tatty
some rust on sills (not serious)
and the gearbox / overdrive, in perfect condition

One very strange thing, since I connected the choke electrics to a switched source instead of the alternator terminal the battery doesn't go flat overnight ...
Oh, must remember to put the air filter back.
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Chris Johnson
RSSOC 1979> Dark Star Coupé 1989> Scimitar France 2010> Vert Soleil GTC 2014>
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DARK STAR
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Post by DARK STAR » Wed Nov 22, 2017 5:13 pm

Finally got round to the tappets and of course the leaky rocker covers.
The tappets were all between 0,04 and 0,05 mm which is a lot of thousandths of a ninge.
And the rocker covers weren't even tightened on the mis-fitted gaskets :roll:
The car is a lot less noisy and smelly now!

A consequence of adjusting the tappets is that the idle speed is a bit low and the choke needs adjusting again.
I'll soon be doing it in my sleep.


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Post by DARK STAR » Sun Nov 26, 2017 5:11 pm

I have done about 200 km in the last week without the slightest problem :clap:
except that I still haven't managed to adjust the choke properly.
I presume the garage have bent something trying to get it to work but I can't see what.
The choke idle speed adjuster locates perfectly with the cover off but seems to fall off the step as soon as you can't see what is happening.
If I turn the bi-metallic spring any further to hold it in place it shuts the choke butterflies completely ...
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Post by scimjim » Sun Nov 26, 2017 5:26 pm

The tab on the left definitely looks like it’s bent out of shape?


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Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
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Post by DARK STAR » Sun Nov 26, 2017 5:52 pm

Yes, the manual says you should bend that (really) :shock:
But I think it would be worse if I bent it back ...

To explain the operation
Left hand pivot simple, open the throttle, it turns clockwise.
Right hand pivot when cold, choke bi-metal spring pushes clockwise, closing butterflies and keeping cold idle adjuster on the step.
BUT the bit behind (with the step) is not connected to that and turns anti-clockwise when you open the throttle.
So it overcomes the spring - but should go back to rest when you lift off.
The front bit when hot also turns anti-clockwise and no longer pushes the step back into position.
I'm still thinking about it.


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Post by scimjim » Sun Nov 26, 2017 8:20 pm

now you know why everyone throws them in the bin when they go wrong :-)

I'm all for fixing things where possible but there's a limit to my time, effort & interest versus expense.


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Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Post by philhoward » Sun Nov 26, 2017 8:26 pm

Ah - but Chris is a Yorkshireman.. :mrgreen:


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Post by DARK STAR » Sun Nov 26, 2017 10:49 pm

Phil understands 8)


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Post by DARK STAR » Sun Dec 03, 2017 3:55 pm

I took the choke heater off and put a spring on the operating lever to hold it in place.
I was thus able to adjust the choke throttle advance without the damn thing heating up and unadjusting itself.
Put it back together and it works more or less as intended, but the choke seems to heat up almost instantly.
Next check is the voltage from the temperature sensor ...

Looking round for other problems (this car is making me paranoid) I noticed one of the power steering hoses looks very tired.
Is it a special fitting or can I use a pressure hose (of what size?) with normal hose clips like on the top fixing?
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Post by Roger Pennington » Sun Dec 03, 2017 6:39 pm

AFAIK the supply-side pipes have to use the properly crimped high pressure hoses, due to the pressure that the system operates at (IRO 1200 psi, IIRC?). You should be able to get them made up at a PAS or AirCon specialist.


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Post by DARK STAR » Sun Dec 31, 2017 5:23 pm

The high pressure side looks ok, I'll postpone that idea 8)

Turning my attention to the passenger door which fitted only because I had taken the seals off,
I dismantled the door with the idea that I could cut a centimetre out of the thickness at the back bottom corner.
Only I noticed that the inner moulding wasn't fixed hard against the outer :idea:
So I tried shutting the door without the trim panel - and the clearance is perfect.
Further investigation revealed that the fixing screw holes of the inner panel are not in the right place.
These are apparently original because there are no extra holes THEREFORE Reliant buggered it up originally :roll:

Put the screws back in new holes drilled in the right place - end of problem.
Must order new door seal ...

This important discovery may be useful to the many SE6/a/b owners who have badly fitting doors :doh:


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Post by gtcse8 » Sun Dec 31, 2017 5:45 pm

Chris

99% of SE6 onwards passenger doors do not fit correctly, this is due to the mouldings being slightly out at the trailing edge at the bottom.

I have just recently re fitted a set of Middlebridge doors with the same trouble, and have another MB waiting for re aligning.

Just look at most SE6 onwards from the rear passenger side and you can see a 5 or 6MM discrepancy.


See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s, GTC, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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Post by DARK STAR » Sun Dec 31, 2017 6:21 pm

Mine now fits perfectly, if I remember I'll take a photo tomorrow.
Has anyone else checked the inner panel fit, it is this which actually touches the seal, not the door.


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Post by gtcse8 » Sun Dec 31, 2017 6:25 pm

On the MB doorcards they were coated in some form of colourant dye, this had made the plastic swell and become soft.

Some MB had leather coated doors and they are a right pain to fit.

I think Peter Freeman has had this problem too.


See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s, GTC, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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Post by DARK STAR » Sun Dec 31, 2017 6:29 pm

This is an old photo of the driver's door, which is ok.
On this door the inner panel touches the ledge on the outer.
On the passenger side it didn't.
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