Body repairs

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AJL Electronics
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Body repairs

Post by AJL Electronics » Sat Mar 07, 2015 7:49 pm

A few pictures of a renovation in progress...

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Re: Body repairs

Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Mar 08, 2015 10:22 pm

The final picture is after the epoxy primer coats. It was tinted blue before spraying, because the topcoat will be dark blue. It now needs a couple of days to harden before flatting back. Hopefully the colour coats will be applied this week once a final decision has been made about colour.


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Re: Body repairs

Post by Roger Pennington » Sun Mar 08, 2015 10:34 pm

The "after" looks a lot better than the "before" :) Is that the door from one of the recent charred cars? :wink:


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Re: Body repairs

Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Mar 08, 2015 10:41 pm

Yes, fire damaged Sabre door. It was in a real mess and probably took 3 days of work to get to where it is now.


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Re: Body repairs

Post by CNHSS1 » Sun Mar 08, 2015 11:43 pm

Did you re-resin the charring? And flowcoat, or just filler?


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Re: Body repairs

Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Mar 08, 2015 11:50 pm

Rotary wire brush to remove all the crap, followed by a resin stabilising coat. Then a resin / microballons base filler, followed by PP Ultimate filler. Fine details repaired with Diamond glaze and then one coat of primer. Once gone hard, Diamond Glaze in the imperfections then disclosed, followed by final primer coats.

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Re: Body repairs

Post by CNHSS1 » Mon Mar 09, 2015 12:20 am

Thanks Andy. Ive used resin and microballons for the bonnet repair to make rigid again. Havent filled yet, had a bug this weekend :-( so behind schedule now...
Thanks for the info 8)


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Re: Body repairs

Post by Coupe Racing » Mon Mar 09, 2015 7:54 pm

Please dont be offended by this

But will this process escape the micro blister issues that a lot of cars suffer with ?


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Re: Body repairs

Post by AJL Electronics » Mon Mar 09, 2015 9:30 pm

Why would I be offended? The micro blisters would be water, so the important thing is to keep the water out. Firstly, the burnt door by its nature is likely to be dry! After cleaning up, it was put somewhere warm for a while. Repair work was 99% resin based, with just a skim where needed of polyester filler. It was then primed after dry flatting. The primer used is not conventional, so it does not absorb moisture. Very thin skims of a harder filler were used on top where imperfections showed and then it was again dry flatted and primed. The spraying is done with professional standard air filters and water seperators and every effort made to keep the compressor output drained. As the primer is waterproof, the topcoating can be left for up to six months without issue. Until then, the door will be kept very warm and totally dry before topcoating in 2 pack. Thinners content at every stage is below 10% and adequate flash time provided between coats.

So, it remains to be seen if that is enough to keep it blister free.


Yes, we can mend your Scimitar!
Order your Scimitar parts any hour of the day at http://www.classicmicrocars.com (member's discounts).

Fancy a holiday in Gael, France? http://www.ianrhu.com

There is no point trying to teach a pig to sing. It doesn't work and it annoys the pig.

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