Derusting damper mounting bracket

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Dennis Nicholas
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Derusting damper mounting bracket

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Tue May 21, 2019 8:44 am

Before cleaning
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The difficult slot.
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I am just doing a front end overhaul on my GTC. I can clean up most of the damper mounting bracket with a wire brush hand/grinder mounted and my shot blasting cabinet but the slot is more of a challenge....as you can see I have got rid of most of the muck from inside and using an old belt sander sand belt wrapped on a large flat file have cleaned a bit more. But any tips for getting it better cleaned/derusted for painting. I will use WURTH rust converter as the final cleaner before painting.
I can no longer get my preferred KBS Coatings Rust Seal so I suppose I will have to settle for using POR15 (if I can find any gloss black). Any other paint? An epoxy....if so what make?
Have also just been given a tip to submerse bracket in Oxalic Acid crystals in water.

Dennis


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Derusting damper mounting bracket

Post by philhoward » Tue May 21, 2019 8:56 am

I've recently discovered Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 as a rust converter. Marvellous stuff.


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Derusting damper mounting bracket

Post by peter freeman » Tue May 21, 2019 8:57 am

Weld a plate over the open ends - drill and tap the top so you can fill the void with waxoil or similar ( oil is no good as the seams are not sealed ) - fit and forget - did it to our Coupe brackets over 20 years ago



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Derusting damper mounting bracket

Post by peter freeman » Tue May 21, 2019 9:09 am

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Derusting damper mounting bracket

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Tue May 21, 2019 9:26 am

philhoward wrote:
Tue May 21, 2019 8:56 am
I've recently discovered Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 as a rust converter. Marvellous stuff.
Thanks Phil..had known about it but my local very good paint man got me onto using the WURTH product (My A7 body shell been sitting naked with just rust converter treated surface for a few years now and no surface rust).


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Derusting damper mounting bracket

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Tue May 21, 2019 9:31 am

Peter - Thanks for that, what an excellent idea......that will be the next job.
Just what this forum is all about..information and good ideas.


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Derusting damper mounting bracket

Post by gtcse8 » Tue May 21, 2019 9:32 am

philhoward wrote:
Tue May 21, 2019 8:56 am
Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80
I use the DeOx C as a submersible cleaner on parts I can`t get into.
It goes a long way when mixed correctly and even removes the horrible slag that tends to form on castings such as clipers.


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Derusting damper mounting bracket

Post by philhoward » Tue May 21, 2019 9:36 am

I thought it was "expensive" as a converter but it does go a very long way. Bought 2 bottles to do the chassis and frame on the RV - not even a quarter way through the first bottle yet.

The Hydrate 80 doesn't need an additional coating (i.e. paint) if you don't want to add one, but apparently anything will go on top of it.


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Post by gtcse8 » Tue May 21, 2019 9:51 am

Yes Phil
Horses for courses, I don`t tend to do much tin work other than New stuff, see my recent For Sale advert, BUT i do work on heavy castings such as heads and calipers so a submersible solution works best for me.


Mark Wilson. See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s,1 & 1/2 GTC`s, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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Derusting damper mounting bracket

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Tue May 21, 2019 10:57 am

Dennis Nicholas wrote:
Tue May 21, 2019 9:26 am
philhoward wrote:
Tue May 21, 2019 8:56 am
I've recently discovered Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 as a rust converter. Marvellous stuff.
Thanks Phil..had known about it but my local very good paint man got me onto using the WURTH product (My A7 body shell been sitting naked with just rust converter treated surface for a few years now and no surface rust).
Just to add the Bilt Hamber products ALL usually get best of reports when compared with other similar products.


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Derusting damper mounting bracket

Post by ScimmyMike » Wed May 22, 2019 3:11 pm

Bilt Hamber products generally are bloody good, I use their DEOX-C powder with hot water, amazing results very quickly, can re use till it goes black and works fine but slower as a cold solution


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Derusting damper mounting bracket

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Thu Jun 13, 2019 8:32 am

peter freeman wrote:
Tue May 21, 2019 9:09 am
photo
peter freeman wrote:
Tue May 21, 2019 8:57 am
Weld a plate over the open ends - drill and tap the top so you can fill the void with waxoil or similar ( oil is no good as the seams are not sealed ) - fit and forget - did it to our Coupe brackets over 20 years ago
Peter. Did you have to take any particular precautions when welding to prevent distortion of entire bracket? I will use MIG welder.
Thoughts....bolt lower wishbones onto bracket; weld short sections at a time and vary side to side

Dennis


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Post by peter freeman » Thu Jun 13, 2019 8:40 am

I used space welding ( welding in short lengths at a time at different parts of the weld piece, learnt about it when fitting echo sounders ) but don't think on such a small piece it would make a difference and the end plate was relatively thin - I used my MIG because I cannot afford a TIG and it would not be used often enough to justify its purchase anyway.



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Post by Dennis Nicholas » Sat Jun 15, 2019 12:12 am

deoxC......I diluted at 19:1 as per instructions which also say not to use stronger than 4:1.
The 19:1 was nowhere near strong enough and some bits were submersed for a couple of days and still not cleaned up!
I made up a stronger small amount and added to original but still took a long time to clean up the damper bracket.
Bracket done now and plates welded on as per Peter's tip. I did spray etch primer on inside too before welding plate on second end.....woops my mistake....thought it was the weld through primer :cry: and hydrate 80 applied to all outside.....the 80 seems a bit 'soft' and I don't know if it will withstand the rigours in use??.......I will be painting over with POR 15 (unless I can get small 113.6ml tin of the KBS Coatings similar but more developed paint. 113ml covers 6sqft 2 coats.

AJL how about doing us all a favour and become the UK importer/supplier of the KBS coatings paint? At the moment the smallest tins available I can find are pints. That covers a vast area (24 sq ft) with two coats and would just not get used before it went off with time.
My previous supplier was a woman working from home near Newton Abbot (husband has garage rebuilding VW so no time to play paint) and she got fed up with clutter in house and dealing with Customs so stoped.

Dennis


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Post by Dennis Nicholas » Sat Jun 15, 2019 12:33 am

Ah just found interesting info about the KBS v POR
KBS coatings RUST SEAL vs POR 15
The author says:-
I wanted to respond to several of the replies in an effort to get the users the best outcome regardless of the product they choose to use.
First both POR-15 and KBS RustSeal are closed cell urethanes, never shaken, always stirred. The fact that they are closed cell paints means you have to use thin coats, why? because the paint has to cure throughout it's thickness before the surface seals over unlike a conventional automotive paint where the solvents leach to the surface and evaporate leaving behind a pore in the surface.
The good thing is a closed cell paint leaves a thicker effective layer of paint. With either product you need to end up with 4 to 4.5 mils of paint for automotive applications. If it's applied to thick the solvents won't have enough time to dry out before the surface seals over and the paint will lift from the metal.
Because these are moisture cured products, it's the moisture in the atmosphere that cause the paints to cure. If it's really dry out it will take a long time to cure. Moisture soaked newspapers under your project will solve this. If the humidity is high they can cure so fast, especially with 1 mil or less coats, they may not have time to level out. Humidity levels are important when you apply it.
This is why directions tell you not to paint out of the can!!! Every time you dip your brush into the can you are introducing oxygen and moisture into the paint in the can which starts the curing process. Rather stir the paint well, use a coffee scoop, so the rim stays clean, and dip out what you need into a glass jar and work from that.
There are a couple of tricks to keep both of these from setting up in the can and lets face it our projects are expensive enough already. I restore old trucks.
1. As mentioned wrap a piece of cling film over the can, then push it down so it touches the paint in the top of the can and then come up over the side of the can and replace the lid
2. My Favourite --Put a self tapping screw with a rubber washer in the lid. Take the lid off and stir well. Replace the lid. Remove the screw and pour out what you need. Go over to your welder and put a puff of argon gas in the hole and replace the screw. The argon is heavier than oxygen so it settles into a layer separating the moisture containing oxygen from the paint in the can. Body shops keep open cans for two to three years this way. Unopened cans can be put in your freezer for long term storage.
If you have streaks, stir stir and stir some more!
Whats the difference between POR-15 and KBS RustSeal, ◦ RustSeal is based on about 25 years newer
chemistry.
◦ POR-15 has 0 UV stability, RustSeal in all 10
colours has 90% UV stability
◦ POR-15 always needs a UV stable top coat and
RustSeal used somewhere not in direct sunlight, floorpans, chassis, etc has all the UV stability it needs and won't need a topcoat. But in direct sunlight, it too needs a 100% UV stable topcoat.
◦ RustSeal has a custom polymer used to eliminate adhesion issues that POR-15 does not have.
◦ Rustseal much higher solids content 70% vs 20%.
◦ RustSeal cost is about 20% less
The difference between RustSeal and Blacktop mentioned in one reply is, RustSeal like POR-15 will give you protection from rust but neither has 100% UV stability. Blacktop is a 100% UV stable chassis topcoat.


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