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Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Sun May 05, 2019 3:21 pm
by scimjim
I have a feeling I have one on the shelf? Will check on Tuesday,

Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Sun May 05, 2019 4:28 pm
by IanC
Well if you do, that would be just great, thanks. Just to be on the safe side, I've posted a couple of photos of the plate, as it has 'motorseite' stamped onto it which while helpful, seems odd for something I would have thought originated from Dagenham (or even Bordeaux).
From the paperwork that came with the car, the conversion is described as an A4LD box with a standard C3 T/C, and after a further check I see that that a C3 drive plate was used.

Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Sun May 05, 2019 5:46 pm
by Coupe Racing
I believe motorseite means engine side .
Did you have it the right way round

Similar markings are often found on clutches too

Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Sun May 05, 2019 6:34 pm
by IanC
Hi, yes, definitely fitted the right way round! I didn't spot the 'motorseite' stamped into it initially, but used the rectangular imprint (photo 2) of the T/C mounting bracket as a guide as to which was the right way round.

Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 4:27 pm
by IanC
Not so much a problem, more of a general query.... the fancy set of SS bolts that came with the car includes exhaust manifold bolts (photo). This isn't something I've come across before, I've only ever seen a manifold held on by studs and nuts. I would have thought that come exhaust removal time, it would be easier to get a nut off a stud, than a bolt out of the head/exhaust port. Any thoughts?

Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 4:49 pm
by scimjim
The exposed ends of studs can corrode, which can make getting the nuts off difficult (which can lead to nuts being rounded etc).

Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 4:50 pm
by Old and Slow
IMHO if you get a seized bolt it will be a nightmare to remove, whereas a nut on a stud won't be as difficult.
SS bolts are a nice idea, but in my opinion I wouldn't do it.

Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 5:01 pm
by Coupe Racing
I've used SS bolts on the exhaust with no issues .
However getting an alien key into the last 2 it tricky , and then there is the issue of being able to tighten them sufficiently

Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 5:18 pm
by philhoward
A suitable sized hex bit for 1/4" drive, and a 1/4" ring spanner normally does for me as you shouldn't need to torque them to oblivion?

From memory, a 5/16" cap head screw generally take a 1/4" Allen key anyway?

Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 5:18 pm
by Old and Slow
BTW, in my past experience (the olden days) they fitted brass nuts on the exhaust studs; does any manufacturer still do this?
Just wondering, is all.

Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 5:27 pm
by philhoward
Either brass or heavy copper plated?

Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 5:57 pm
by TrevorG
I can remember that Robin Rew told me that he always used Allen bolts on his balanced headers as it was almost impossible to get the headers onto the ends of studs and bolts allowed you to slide the headers up into place. I've never had any problems taking them off countless cars and bikes and to answer the broken bolt scenario, when a stud breaks it always seems to go flush with the head anyway!

Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 8:02 pm
by IanC
Thanks guys for your comments.

Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Wed May 08, 2019 8:28 pm
by Old and Slow
Ian,
In spite of my comments above, I've just remembered that the Mays head on the straight six uses allen socket headed bolts! :oops:
I had to get a set of ball-ended allen keys to extract them, and being an alloy head they came out easily,

Engine Rebuild Novice

Posted: Thu May 09, 2019 7:37 am
by Rev Light
I recently fitted a set of tubular headers and had to remove the new studs (with brass nuts) and fit bolts and I could not get the headers over the studs in the engine bay. SE5A. I believe they are allen key types.