Non Scim Battery question

Post by **myredscimitar** » Thu Dec 06, 2018 2:52 pm

The battery on the wife's Meriva is on it's last legs, so I bought a replacement this morning. Rather than dive in and just replace it I read the Haynes manual .... half a page. Dire warnings about central locking, radio needing a code, ECU needing to relearn things etc etc.

The radio is the big concern, no idea what the code is. I hate modern electronics in cars!!!

So, what I was thinking was get the jump leads out, connect my scim battery to the Meriva battery leads, swap out the battery then remove the jumps. Should mean the Meriva always sees 12V and stays happy?

Can anyone out there who understands modern car electrics better than I do see a problem with this???

Don't want to overcomplicate what should be a simple job and then end up causing more problems.

Keith

Post by **IanC** » Thu Dec 06, 2018 3:10 pm

I'm certainly no expert but if the batteries are temporarily in parallel then that sounds ok.
...waits with bated breath for more knowledgeable responses!
Ian

Post by **philhoward** » Thu Dec 06, 2018 3:13 pm

Your theory is sound. You can get “gadgets” that plug into the accessory socket (cig lighter) to maintain battery voltage the same way but obviously they only tend to work if it’s not controlled by the ignition..or you need to keep the ignition on.

derekoss · Post by **derekoss** » Thu Dec 06, 2018 3:28 pm

Jump lead (or indeed any thick cable hookup as long as you ain't starting) works just fine.
The biggest problem is keeping croc clips on the right places as you move stuff around !!

Derek

Post by **myredscimitar** » Thu Dec 06, 2018 3:43 pm

Thanks for that folks. I've done too many silly things in the past because I didn't think through what I was doing first.

Little job for me in the morning then.

Keith

Post by **Dave 6726** » Thu Dec 06, 2018 3:53 pm

If you happen to 'lose' the radio and need a code, if you can get to a main dealer and give them the chassis no., they can usually fetch it up on their PC for you.
(Don't know if they'll charge for this. Mine didn't, but it was a few years ago. I get the impression many will make money out of you any way they can.

)
If you do as suggested by others, it should be OK.

Good luck anyway!

Post by **Elizabeth's dad** » Thu Dec 06, 2018 4:07 pm

As Phil says, plug in devices are available and not expensive. I have one of these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07 ... UTF8&psc=1

£6.49 on Amazon.

Post by **scimitargtc** » Thu Dec 06, 2018 4:49 pm

ISN’T THE CODE HARD ‘CODED’ TO THE VIN? Believe the handbook gives a guide and of course you tube is likely to have many many aids

Post by **philhoward** » Thu Dec 06, 2018 4:57 pm

Depends on the age of the car and when the manufacturer swapped over.