SSI seized engine

binlicker · Post by **binlicker** » Tue Nov 06, 2018 6:00 pm

Hi, I've recently bought an 1600 SS1. when I bought it I knew the engine was seized. It had been stood in a garage for 13 years. I removed the head and got the crank turning but number 2 cylinder has what looked like carbon deposits down one side and also the piston crown had no deposits on it at all, it looked nice and shiny to my mind it was a fault before the engine seized. I'am now in the process of removing the block. How many bolts hold on the block to the bell housing and is it feasible just to remove the short engine and leave the gearbox in place. Steve

Post by **scimjim** » Tue Nov 06, 2018 7:08 pm

Never counted the bolts but they’re fairly obvious (2 at the top, starter motor bolts and 2 or 3 down each side and a couple of small ones underneath) - engine can come out without the gearbox but I always remove the box at the same time. Firstly, you can change the gearbox oil which has probably never been done in its life, secondly lining up a block inside the engine bay can sometimes be a pig!

binlicker · Post by **binlicker** » Wed Nov 07, 2018 10:28 am

Thanks for your answer. I intended to rebuild the engine in situe thinking it was the easier option, is this feasible? So when I put the block back in it should be easier to locate again does this make sense. If not I will remove it with the g/box. Regarding the g/box can't you change the oil when located under the car or is a strange ford thing sealed for life. It's a 5 speed series 9 I've not looked into the mechanics of it. Steve

Post by **reliant-reviver** » Wed Nov 07, 2018 12:17 pm

No problem with changing engine only, but I tend to agree with Jim that is good house keeping to have the while assembly out. That said if the car has only done low mileage then it may be fair to leave it in place.

Think I would definitely build the engine up whole on a stand (presuming you have one and space to work inside)

Post by **Roger Pennington** » Wed Nov 07, 2018 12:22 pm

binlicker wrote: ↑
Wed Nov 07, 2018 10:28 am
Regarding the g/box can't you change the oil when located under the car or is a strange ford thing sealed for life. It's a 5 speed series 9

It's not quite "sealed for life", but close - it has a filler plug but (normally) no drain, so the only drainage is via leaks! The only way to get the oil out is to suck it out through the filler. I believe some people have modified the box by drilling the casing to install a drain.

binlicker · Post by **binlicker** » Wed Nov 07, 2018 12:34 pm

No I don't have an engine stand and I'am not endowed with loads of room the garage. It is plenty big enough but full of other folks crap, but I must admit It now make good sense to remove both, more so with the g/box all but sealed. I've had a look and it seems pretty straight forward

Today I think I will remove the nose and rad, I guess it will give me a little more working space. Steve PS I've never seen so much rubber pipe in a single car I hope it's all still available.

Post by **scimjim** » Fri Nov 09, 2018 12:32 pm

Bellhousing pic for bolt reference - note that one of those holes is for the clutch cable and there are a couple of types of starter (with corresponding slightly different shaped bellhousing)

: BB6731E4-80BA-4AC2-A5E5-ED753A42AD9A.jpeg (337.58 KiB) Viewed 676 times

binlicker · Post by **binlicker** » Fri Nov 09, 2018 4:33 pm

Thanks for the advice and photo. I had taken all the bolts out but now I have put them back because as advised going to remove the box also. At the moment I'am struggling with the speedo cable, do you need to remove the circlip and if you do what do you use to get it off.
Steve

Post by **Roger Pennington** » Fri Nov 09, 2018 4:55 pm

binlicker wrote: ↑
Fri Nov 09, 2018 4:33 pm
Thanks for the advice and photo. I had taken all the bolts out but now I have put them back because as advised going to remove the box also. At the moment I'am struggling with the speedo cable, do you need to remove the circlip and if you do what do you use to get it off.
Steve

Access to the speedo cable is "challenging" - worse, I would think, if you have large hands! You do need to remove the circlip. I got it out by reaching in up inside the tunnel from the back of the car, using a small pair of right-angled circlip pliers which I was able to use one-handed. Some well-chosen words may help too!

Post by **philhoward** » Fri Nov 09, 2018 4:56 pm

Circlip out - yes.

Correct way - circlip pliers (from memory, angled ones but can't remember is you need 45 or 90 degree ones)
"Forgot the circlip pliers way" - small screwdriver, bradawl, skinned knuckles and bloody mindless abuse.

Post by **Coupe Racing** » Fri Nov 09, 2018 5:26 pm

And glasses when it flies out

Post by **scimjim** » Fri Nov 09, 2018 7:52 pm

One of the jobs I hate most. Personally, I remove any clips under the car and pull the engine and box out, then get the circlip off when it’s much more accessible (and occasionally I remember to do it that way when I refit the box

)

It won’t fly out, it stays on the speedo cable.

binlicker · Post by **binlicker** » Fri Nov 09, 2018 10:33 pm

So if I've got this right, you unclip the speedo cable to give yourself a few more inches then move the box forward and then remove the circlip. Steve

Post by **scimjim** » Fri Nov 09, 2018 10:45 pm

Yep, unclipping the P clip from underneath the body tub will give you several feet not inches.

binlicker · Post by **binlicker** » Fri Nov 09, 2018 11:06 pm

That's great the wife was getting toward the end of her tether try to get the circlip out.

I wish..... Steve