Keys - Details/Tips/Blank Key Codes

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demonbluedays
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Keys - Details/Tips/Blank Key Codes

Post by demonbluedays » Tue Sep 11, 2018 8:22 pm

Ok so I was bored a few nights ago trawling through Scimweb and came across a post for 5a keys from 2015 and Phil H's suggestion to nudge me about them as back then I was in the know.

I still know a few things and have a world key blank book here somewhere which will earn it's keep again to help us!

Got me thinking, why not do a thread about the keys for each model, their codes as well as some dos, don'ts and don't even think about it's....

So, first of all I'll go through dos and don'ts as it'll take some time to hunt down that book and give the coded for each models differing keys (a few days tops)


Now even the youngest Scimitars/Sabres are coming up to their mid twenties and thirties, which means a lot of the time, the original keys may well have long broken/disappeared/worn down to the point they no longer function and you've had more cut over the years as spares anyway. Now that spare although functional has likely had some fair use itself and may soon need replacing, but don't be too surprised if a new cut off that spare doesn't work. As copies eventually get imperfections that then aren't lined up correctly to push the pins out of the barrel so you can start the car or unlock the doors.

Now there's two soloutions to this, a whole new lock set with fresh keys, or having a key cut to the lock itself (Matt Greenly informs me QRG can do something like this) which gives you a fresh master key to keep in a safe place and is used to cut the day to day keys.

Now, as for the key itself, whatever you do don't for the love of god rush to ebay/wish/some other auction or massive discount website. Always buy either direct from manufacturer of the blanks or a place that's an authorised seller of the keys (assuming you want a few blank ones spare if they start to get hard to source) as in my time with Timpson the amount of eBay keys I saw go tits up I lost count of in the end. It's to do with the quality of the metals used to create the blank, and usually they were Chinese copies of the key that people instead of paying 15 quid for and were from the same people that made them for the manufacturer of the car. paid 99p or sometimes less and got bitten. A lot of the time, the cheap copies just can't take the stress of twisting in a lock as much, resulting in either part of the blade snapping off and stuck in your ignition or door locks, or even worse the entire body breaking off from the keys head and twisting along it's length, jamming that lock up entirely meaning at least one new differently keyd lock that you'll have to pay extra again for a locksmith to match up with the others on the car.

Yes you may have to pay a bit more for genuine HD/Keyline/Silca blanks, but trust me on this one you will save yourself a lot of headaches forking out more now vs having to then replace the whole lot on top of the cost you paid to get the cheaper ones.

Now Timpson did have a reliant key section in their key book, but for GTE's at least (from 5 to 6b/GTC) those blanks were incorrect. The blanks they had were the "reverse" pattern to the ones used, with the 6a ignition key pattern *as an example* being on the right hand side not the left. The correct pattern was actually under the British Leyland heading of the book, no surprises there really but still even people who are specialists still sometimes get it wrong and that book had nearly 50,000+ blank patterns in it. Which is again why I'm doing this, to save you from going all around the houses trying to find the right key and it's identification code to save headaches and frustration, as well as money too!

Now, it's sometime in the future, you've taken the codes I've listed for your car and you now have (at least one) shiny blank key in your possession ready to be cut. Now some places ( I.e Timpson again) may turn you away as they don't know where that key came from, but may also say if they do cut it, and it snaps to bits, it's your risk to take. But we did have customers produce evidence they were genuine blanks at times and cut them straight away, but if it didn't work they'd have to bring in another blank key or buy one of the ones in branch. It comes down to you didn't buy it from there so they'll be stuffed if they're going to use one of theirs to replace one that doesn't work, which changes the moment you buy one of theirs as it's then on them to make it work.

Alternatively as a noggin or closeby geographically group of friends chip in and buy a second hand cylinder key cutter (Silca Rekord 2000 is my suggestion if you do, those things were amazing and didn't need much in the way of resetting/adjusting ever!) And do them yourself using your own keys, if someone takes that option let me know and I'll write up a how to guide on using one :wink:

Right that's as much as I can do for now minus the book for the codes, and a big shout to Matt G for shots of his and Mrs G's Scimitar keys so I can match up and reference them for you!


Tom "DemonBlueDays" Williams

1976 SE6 #141 "Mighty"

2009 Fox "King"

Former Owner Of

1979 Se6a Manual Overdrive "Link"

Formerly RSSOC #3185 - Must renew eventually....

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Keys - Details/Tips/Blank Key Codes

Post by peter freeman » Tue Sep 11, 2018 8:33 pm

I took my lock to my local shoe shop who also cut keys and they made me two keys by measuring the lock sections.



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Keys - Details/Tips/Blank Key Codes

Post by Old and Slow » Wed Sep 12, 2018 6:40 pm

Great idea .
I took my key into Timpsons to buy a blank with the correct grooves, and then took out the barrel and got out the Swiss Files.
Of course the spare set turned up the following week! :?


Philip Needham
Ashley-bodied TR3; '54 Ford Consul; '55 AC 2-Litre Saloon;'65 850 Mini; '70 Ford Zodiac MkIV; XR3i
'81 911SC Targa, '64 Sabre Six

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Keys - Details/Tips/Blank Key Codes

Post by demonbluedays » Sat Sep 15, 2018 3:30 pm

Mr Needham, do me a favour as if forgotten about the Sabres and Sabra can you send me an image of your ignition and door keys?



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