Trunnion Repair Kit

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Post by Oldconn » Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:29 am

That doesn't sound right to me. You should not have to force anything to align correctly. Are you sure the top arms are the right way round? Are the bottom brackets to the chassis the right way round( offset bolts?) are your bronze trunnions the correct ones for the car (PAS have different castor from non-PAS). The steering swivel action should be quite free. Check everything before you put it on the road, it's quite possible you have some wrong parts for your car.


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Post by backpain » Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:39 am

Can you photo it so we can see


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Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Apr 30, 2018 3:40 pm

I'd agree, it sounds as though something isn't correct; photos would help :)


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Post by spegru » Tue May 01, 2018 7:20 pm

Sorry guys I only just found your answers. The car used to have manual steering but it's now being converted to PAS by swapping the top arms around and using PAS trunnions. The chassis brackets have not been touched.
Although the steering swivel is quite tight I can move each hub (Steering rack not yet connected) fairly easily using two hands so could any excess stiffness be in the brand new top ball joint?
I did strike me after my previous post that the shims behind the top arms would affect the alignment at the top ball joint if there was more at one end of the swivel than the other at the moment I have no shims at all

A pity that I did not take any photos.



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Post by philhoward » Tue May 01, 2018 8:07 pm

The chassis brackets will be your issue then - there are different ones between power and manual.


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Post by scimjim » Tue May 01, 2018 9:30 pm

Same brackets but they need swapping so that the centreline moves the opposite way.

I’d get a full alignment carried out after conversion and resetting the camber/castor shims.


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Post by spegru » Wed May 02, 2018 9:24 am

Right that would sound like the answer. I hadn't heard of this foible before. I see from the GW diagrams that it's only the front lower wishbone mounting that is affected. Odd that they should be handed left and right though.
I also see there is spacer Item 16 - looks like a washer to me

Yes to a camber caster check not to mention tracking



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Post by scimjim » Wed May 02, 2018 11:59 am

spegru wrote:
Wed May 02, 2018 9:24 am
I see from the GW diagrams that it's only the front lower wishbone mounting that is affected
Both lower wishbone bracket mounts need to be changed round. The lower wishbone angles (relative to each other) don't change - that's set by the damper plate, so both inboard attachment points need to move forward or back by the same amount.


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Post by derekoss » Wed May 02, 2018 1:14 pm

Nobody has mentioned the shims for the lower wishbone chassis brackets. I'm sure I read somewhere in a Reliant publication they shouldn't be disturbed but if so the shims replaced as left the factory. No use with new brackets.
I assume, and indeed set mine as a one sided pair, parallel to the centre line of the vehicle.
I set the vehicle level on axle stands above a level floor and dropped the centre of the hole down to the floor then ran a laser through the marks. Quite surprised at the shims required.

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Post by scimjim » Wed May 02, 2018 1:29 pm

yes, they're not shown in the parts manual because they're not normally needed - just depends which way the chassis is twisted :-)

the parts manual shows the side swapping of brackets between PAS & non PAS and also a small spacer between wishbone and damper mount for PAS?
se6b%20front%20suspen%203.png
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se6b%20front%20suspen%204.png
se6b%20front%20suspen%204.png (260.42 KiB) Viewed 285 times


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Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
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1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Post by Roger Pennington » Wed May 02, 2018 2:15 pm

Neither of my 6as had any shims on the bottom brackets as standard, and I suspect that was the case for most new cars. However 30 or 40 years of use (and abuse?) may change that - when Richard Carter set up the front end of the Yellow Peril, he did find he needed to shim the bottom brackets to get the right settings.


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Post by RonH » Wed May 02, 2018 7:24 pm

gtcse8 wrote:
Fri Oct 20, 2017 7:33 pm
Yup
I will be getting all my top hats out and turning an appropriate amount off .
Mark
Are you likely to be making these sets up anytime soon for sale?
If so please let me now the price for a GTC set or three etc.
Cheers
Ron



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Post by gtcse8 » Wed May 02, 2018 7:42 pm

Hi Ron

I have placed an order and awaiting delivery so I can check for the quality on the new batch.

I have not yet been supplied by Anyone the straight forward fitting kits, if its not the press fit of the top hats its the size of the "brim and fit of the O ring seals.

Mark


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Post by RonH » Wed May 02, 2018 8:00 pm

Cheers Mark
Please keep me informed when your sets are ready.
Separately just wondering about a steering rack refurbishment. As my oil disappeared some three years ago and I’ve not moved the car in that time I’m probably looking at one from you. I’ll send you a pm so we can look at available options and the way forward.
Ron



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Post by spegru » Mon May 21, 2018 5:16 pm

Coming back to the lower suspension arm brackets I am now confused because my 1979 SE6A car seems to have one of each type of bracket on the each side of the car. By my reckoning, If I swap left to right I should therefore either finish up with exactly the same arrangement as at present or with a pair of brackets that is either much to close together or much too far apart for the wishbone.

I had been expecting each bracket pair to be the same and that swapping left to right would move the bottom wishbone forward or back, since the mounting bolts are offset to one side. Is the power steering dependency more subtle than moving the position of the lower wishbone? (and there are actually four types of bracket?)

help!
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