Essex V6 Cooling discussion

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V6pushfit
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Essex V6 Cooling discussion

Post by V6pushfit » Wed Sep 27, 2017 7:59 am

Well, while it’s drained to reduce the antifreeze %, what is the best way to flush the block? I’m thinking it’s ok as the coolant is pretty clear after 8 months but best to check.
And I presume the heater matrix flushing is obvious - disconnect both hoses and flush backwards?


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Essex V6 Cooling discussion

Post by V6pushfit » Wed Sep 27, 2017 8:05 am

And as an aside - the Wetter Water stuff seems to have very good reviews and I can understand how it works BUT forgive me if I’m on the wrong track but the idea of it ‘making an engine run cooler’ - the temp sender on an engine is always before the radiator SO if it’s recording lower temperatures then surely there is less heat being taken way from the block? To work as stated surely the sender would actually be hotter....


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Post by Terry H » Wed Sep 27, 2017 8:09 am

Somebody mentioned to use cheap cola from the supermarket. Never used it myself, my block was cleaned out the last time the heads were off, around cylinder six is the worst.
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Post by philhoward » Wed Sep 27, 2017 8:18 am

Don't use a domestic mains-powered hosepipe to flush out the heater matrix - the "in" and "out" ports are separated by a thin piece of metal that will bend if you apply mains water pressure to it and render it useless.

Use "full fat" Cola, not Sugar-Free stuff. It's a mixture of the phosphoric acid and bubbles which shifts a lot of muck but if the crud has been there for a long time, nothing short of a metal scraper will shift it.


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Essex V6 Cooling discussion

Post by V6pushfit » Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:16 am

Ok coke it is then. I think garden hose into the top heater union into the block and out through the water pump bottom hose. The closed thermostat isolates the rad and having disconnected the heater top union and plugged the hose it’ll isolate the matrix. Matrix and rad can then be done seperately.
Are those flushing fluids any good?


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Post by philhoward » Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:19 am

Probably no better than a couple of bottles of cola..

If you want something probably better and cheaper than automotive flushing agents, try the products for clearing out central heating systems; just make sure you flush it out a few more times to make sure all the fluid has been washed out as it's probably somewhat stronger and you don't want it (possibly) eating the hoses.


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Post by manny » Wed Sep 27, 2017 2:35 pm

I used a diluted water\white vinegar mix to replace the coolant- over the course of a week - i ran the car on the drive (idle) up to point the fan cut in, every day - then switched off - on the last day - drain the contents - lots of muck and rust removed. Then flushed with water whilst the car was running..



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Post by Terry H » Wed Sep 27, 2017 3:29 pm

water\white vinegar
I have a book about what you can do with vinegar called "501 Hints & Tips With Vinegar". Very good on glass.
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Post by manny » Wed Sep 27, 2017 6:49 pm

Terry H wrote:
Wed Sep 27, 2017 3:29 pm
water\white vinegar
I have a book about what you can do with vinegar called "501 Hints & Tips With Vinegar". Very good on glass.
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Essex V6 Cooling discussion

Post by V6pushfit » Mon May 20, 2019 7:55 pm

I may have found the overheating/vaporisation cause.....

3 years of issues and maybe, just maybe it’s this:

1. The autochoke is plumbed in between thermostat and pump
2. The heater is plumbed in between a take off at rear of the inlet manifold and the pump

So

Two lots of hot water recirculating without going through the rad.

Question: Is the rear manifold take off a common feature on Scimitars as if I blank it off, and blank off the small top inlet to the pump and then run from thermostat to autochoke to heater to pump then:

A. Only one Circuit will be recirculating back to the pump and
B. There will be better flow from the pump into the engine block and with cooler water.

I’ve seen top pump outlets blocked off before but not known why. I lose the heater valve though.

Any thoughts anyone?


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Post by ozscim » Tue May 21, 2019 12:06 pm

Hi, just to add my two penerth worth! Here in Perth WA, we often get to 40c during summer.

I've never had a problem with vaporization with my SE6A, and in our Fibreglassics club there are 2 TVR Tuscans which as far as I know have never suffered from the problems you are experiencing.

They join us on many a long run during the summer months along with 3 other Scimitars, and a Marcos all fitted with the Essex engine.

The only thing I would add, is the owner of an SE5A had fitted a fuel filter between the mechanical pump and carby, and when he stopped after a run on a hot day, the fuel would disappear out of the filter.

His car, under heavy acceleration, would cut out briefly for the first couple of miles, and then run normally.When he removed the filter the problem disappeared.

Hope you solve the problem, Neil.



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Post by JoeySully » Tue May 21, 2019 2:30 pm

I have experienced overheating issues for years(se6a). I had always had issues with one component or another, leaking clogged rad, leaking hoses, leaking thermostat housing, dodgy rad cap, the list goes on. Eventually I found that the head gasket had failed and replaced them along with Rad\silicone hoses.
this improved things greatly.
Soon after I had to take the engine out anyway so I stripped down everything to access the core plugs and removed them all.
The amount of junk in the engine was very surprising. There are channels that go from one side of the block to the other in between the cylinder they were totally blocked. As someone else mentioned next to cylinder 6 there was a huge buildup of rusty sludge. probably a whole cup full. inside the rear core plugs were no better. I even found what looked like small nails in there.
To clean it out I suspended the engine from the engine crane out the garage door and sprayed into each core plug using a mini sewer jetter that had about 10-15mm diameter head. This got right into the hard to reach parts with one jet out front and 3 facing rearward. Its very messy but get the job done. i kept spraying until the water ran out clean. I'm not sure if doing this would affect the head or inlet manifold gaskets.. it was a concern of mine at the time. I guess they are putting up with 120psi+ compression pressure so my aldi pressure washer shouldn't have upset them too much.
I'm sure you could do this with the engine in place just by removing the core plugs on the sides.

I have seen the manifolds glow Bright red in the past like Jim mentioned, when the carb was not adjusted correctly. take a look some dark evening when the engine is at operating temperature you may see some glow to indicate things are not adjusted as they should be.



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Post by MrGoldtop1960 » Tue May 21, 2019 3:11 pm

Hi Joe,
Like you, I managed to extract a good mug full of detritus from within the block when I stripped my 5a engine down many years ago! I think most of it was casting sand, with a hint of rust, that was still left in the block after manufacture.
With the bare block on an engine stand in a warm garage, the inside of the block gradually dried out and as it dried, more and more "stuff" became detached and fell out of it when I rotated the block on the stand. Helping it by tapping the block with a copper mallet and some bendy coat hanger wire being poked inside the waterways did wonders :D
I'm convinced that the amount of sand left in the block adds towards any overheating issue especially when all the basic remedies have been covered.

KevO


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Essex V6 Cooling discussion

Post by V6pushfit » Tue May 28, 2019 6:53 am

Well I rerouted the plumbing, went out for a test and after 10 miles was thinking wow I’ve sorted it, proud as punch I was. Beautiful hot sunny Saturday afternoon with the V6 burbling away.
.....
....
In fact it went to 12 miles before stuttering intermittently, and 13 miles to stalling and turning over but not starting. Water was reading about 75 ish, lower rad hose cool.

What is this about???!!!! I had to humbly get the AA out and an hour later it still wouldn’t start. Mr AA reckoned he could smell petrol out the exhaust and possibly no spark at the plugs although given the bright sunshine this isn’t cast in stone. After 90 mins it started and he followed me 3 miles home, the drive being a bit stutters with backfires (the car too). But at least made it back.

Anyway Mr AA has opened up a new line of enquiry - ignition. Maybe just maybe it’s the Powerspark module or coil failing when hot. The previous owner fitted it 10 years ago and they do fail.

So a new coil and module will be on order today.

I can’t change to points to test as the trigger wheel for the module is a metal star pressed into the shaft. I have however stripped down a spare dizzy and have the parts to change back to lobes/new backplate etc in situ if needs be but the advance is much less (16 on the existing, 11.5 on the spare) so I’m reluctant to do this first off.

I’ll update after the Powerspark stuff is replaced, but the only way to test it will be 10-15+ miles this time in circles nearer home still with the potential of any breakdown being at a road junction or blind corner !


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Post by scimjim » Tue May 28, 2019 9:05 am

Classic coil (or ignition module) failure symptoms.


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