Brush-painting

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Re: Brush-painting

Post by DarrylWebb » Wed Jan 18, 2017 6:17 pm

As Phil says I rollered with Rustoleum. It's certainly time intensive with all that flatting and waiting for curing between coats.
For me it made sense as my car started as a basket case, it was a project and I wanted to do it all myself, I was curious about rollering, and the cost of a proper spray job didn't make sense compared to the car's purchase price.
At £300 for all materials (and I could have done it for less) it's good value for the job. My job's not perfect and won't be to everyone's taste, but I'm not building a show car.
Check out YouTube videos. With skill and technique some excellent results can be achieved, but don't think of it as an easy, cheap way to the same finish as a pro paint job.
As already said, light colours are more forgiving : I did white RAL9010.


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Re: Brush-painting

Post by AnotherTim » Wed Jan 18, 2017 10:13 pm

I did this (the grey) in rustoleum, straight out of the pot and applied with rollers. No flatting back, no second coat - the van's bodywork was so dinked and buckled it didn't warrant doing anything more than that, but I wanted it grey and I wanted to make sure it didn't start rusting. Took me half a day and in all honesty it looked pretty good in the places where the van was still smooth enough for it to look smooth.

Image

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Eventually I sanded it off and gave it a coat of matt seal, to emphasise it's bedraggled personality

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Re: Brush-painting

Post by Mr Bridger » Thu Jan 19, 2017 4:07 pm

speedy555 wrote: But what it does do, being synthetic, is makes it a total nightmare for anybody to tackle spraying it 'properly' in the future as it has a tendancy to clog sanding discs quicker than you can pick them up, and reacts terribly with 2k or cellulose, or even more synthetic if thinned down a lot. All can be overcome, but is headache causing for the future (IMO) :w
Yep! I rollered my VW T2 van with the idea of re-spraying it propery when I got the chance. And when I did finally re-spray it in 2K, I ended up in a whole world of pain.

You can brush/roller celly as well of course and as long as you're prepared to spend ages flatting back the brushmarks and any runs then you can get a reasonable (depending on your standards) finish.


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Brush-painting

Post by frodo_monkey » Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:48 am

Quick question please - I'm (eventually) going to be speaking to Mr Speed about an exterior paintjob for the race car, but I was wondering about the hidden underbody areas (underside of floorpans and the like). No point spraying under here, so I'd like to brush-paint it having degreased with brake cleaner first. Any particular sort of paint to use/avoid for these fibreglass areas?



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Brush-painting

Post by scimjim » Mon Feb 19, 2018 10:13 am

Paul T recommended Dulux satinwood :D


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Brush-painting

Post by gordonmc » Mon Feb 19, 2018 10:32 am

Another with memories of RePaint.
I did a mini which was given to me because the rear subframe was lace.
After replacing the subframe I painted the thing in orange and found I had a suprisingly solid little motor. The RePaint did its job but selling the car was near-impossible whith prospective buyers put off by the paint type. Re-spraying with celly would have been a nightmare.
Leap forward a few decades to boat ownership and the need to paint a hull. Paint of preference is now International Toplac which is a silicone alkyd enamel, single pack.
Best results are by a technique called roll n' tip. The easiest way is with two persons. One lays on the paint with a gloss roller. The second follows "tipping" with a fine unloaded brush to remove bubbles and the lines left by the roller. Roll vertically, tip horizontally.
Warm weather can get the paint going off too quickly resulting in dragging. The solution is to add a dollop of Owatrol conditioner to the paint which prolongs the wet edge.
An alternative for two-pack afficianados is Awlgrip which is a polyester based topcoat. It sets hard as nails but the advice sheet suggests some colours are not suitable for brushing.
Needless to say, the quality of the job will depend on preparation.



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Brush-painting

Post by frodo_monkey » Mon Feb 19, 2018 10:33 am

I was thinking some kind of brushable coach enamel might do it?



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Brush-painting

Post by AJL Electronics » Mon Feb 19, 2018 10:40 am

Jotun epoxy primer is now the modern method. You can use Lechler but I believe the Jotun is more suited to underside, brushing use, rather than spraying bodywork. You can tint it or overcoat it with colour / paint of your choice.


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Brush-painting

Post by frodo_monkey » Mon Feb 19, 2018 11:15 am

Do you need to prime the rough textured fibreglass underneath? I would have presumed something like coach enamel could be brushed straight on - happy to be educated though!



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Brush-painting

Post by AJL Electronics » Mon Feb 19, 2018 11:47 am

That's why you use Epoxy primer. Not much will hang onto fibreglass or aluminium. The old way used to be etch primer, but that is acidic and tends to react with some topcoats. Epoxy primer is inert and very tough, you will need a dangly grinder to remove it from clean fibreglass.


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Brush-painting

Post by willholderogri » Mon Feb 19, 2018 12:05 pm

look forward to doing my car


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Brush-painting

Post by speedy555 » Mon Feb 19, 2018 7:41 pm

Yes Epoxy is the way forward as a first coat - I tend to use the Marine stuff rather than automotive, but it's all pretty good at its job


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Brush-painting

Post by Nigel Clark » Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:25 pm

speedy555 wrote:
Mon Feb 19, 2018 7:41 pm
Yes Epoxy is the way forward as a first coat - I tend to use the Marine stuff rather than automotive, but it's all pretty good at its job
Don't want to tempt fate but the 2k finish Dave applied over epoxy primer on my SE6A is holding up well and looking great after 2 years, living under a carport. If we were doing the job again (please no!), I would always ask Dave to use epoxy.

If it's good enough for GRP boat hulls, it's good enough for GRP car bodies.

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