Straight Six rear crank seal

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Old and Slow
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Straight Six rear crank seal

Post by Old and Slow » Thu Sep 13, 2018 9:52 pm

I have an oil leak from the crankshaft rear oil seal; has anyone replaced this by dropping the sump and removing the main bearing cap?
Has anyone any experience of Blue Devil additive?
https://store.gobdp.com/rear-main-sealer-00234/

I'd guess it causes the synthetic rubber to swell a bit, I've sent them an email as I don't think the seals are synthetic rubber.
Any suggestions?


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Straight Six rear crank seal

Post by guybetts » Thu Sep 13, 2018 9:58 pm

Isn't it a felt seal?


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Straight Six rear crank seal

Post by Old and Slow » Thu Sep 13, 2018 10:28 pm

I'd imagine it is, from the 60's.
The workshop manual makes it look easy, but they have the engine upside down on the bench, and have taken the crankshaft out. It says you have to trim the end so that only 20 thou protrudes above the surface, might not be easy working on my back with the car on ramps.
I really really hope that Blue Devil stuff works!


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Straight Six rear crank seal

Post by philhoward » Fri Sep 14, 2018 4:29 am

Any “magic” additive that “fixes” seals should only be considered a temporary solution (such as finish a journey/rally) in my mind. The other downside is it will do its magic to ALL the seals in the engine for which it is compatible. Something to consider?

If it works, you still need to change the leaking seal at some point in the future (and all the others too). If it doesn’t work on the leaking seal, you’ll still need to change the other seals.

I’m saying this and having never stared at one in detail, I don’t know how many seals there actually are on the 2.6 engine - possibly only 2 crank seals and everything else is cork?


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Straight Six rear crank seal

Post by Oaksey » Fri Sep 14, 2018 9:17 am

It's a rope seal. It's not a job you'll be able to do with the crankshaft still in as you really need to make sure it's installed properly. I made a tool and tried to do it on a Jaguar V12 but it didn't work and we took the engine out in the end.


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Straight Six rear crank seal

Post by guybetts » Fri Sep 14, 2018 9:31 am

Josh beat me to it :lol:

Found a spare I have, and as Josh said it's a graphite impregnated two piece rope seal. Looking at the manual as well, I can't see how it can be replaced without dropping the crank as the seal sits in the main bearing cap, and as it's two pieces, you need to align it carefully.

Perhaps it's the front seal that's the felt one?

Edit: Nope, the front seal is rubber :)

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Straight Six rear crank seal

Post by Old and Slow » Fri Sep 14, 2018 12:40 pm

Thanks for all the feedback... :cry:


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Straight Six rear crank seal

Post by guybetts » Fri Sep 14, 2018 1:54 pm

What's the possibility of your engine being different due to its rally heritage?
And if so, different seal materials?
Just a thought...


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Straight Six rear crank seal

Post by chrisgallacher » Fri Sep 14, 2018 2:16 pm

As it's a two-piece (semi-circular) seal you could do half the job by removing the main bearing cap, replacing that half of the seal into the groove & refitting. But you'll never do the other half which sits in the groove underneath (so on the block side of) the crankshaft without first removing the crankshaft.

Having said all that, these are not difficult engines to remove from the car or work on. But they are f heavy! Once the engine's on the bench or stand, removing the crankshaft & replacing the seal is straightforward. It's definitely a diy job for anyone used to working on engines.

I have an engine crane & stand I bought when I rebuilt my engine a few years ago - you're welcome to borrow these if you decide you're up for the challenge yourself Philip!


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Straight Six rear crank seal

Post by heathsabre » Fri Sep 14, 2018 5:08 pm

I've just removed the engine from our Sabre Six GT. As Chris says, not too difficult. For me a couple of day's work. Note home made engine crane!
engineout.jpg
engineout.jpg (209.74 KiB) Viewed 49 times


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Straight Six rear crank seal

Post by Old and Slow » Fri Sep 14, 2018 9:16 pm

Hi Chris,
Thanks for the offer, I might take you up on it. I can possibly use the garage cross beam and hoist, but this isn't what I'd planned for this winter. :(
I used that approach changing the AlfaSud engine in the Porsche 550 replica I had.
If I remove all the ancillaries and the head, and detach at the bellhousing, then oiking out the block might not be too heavy/difficult.
Tony,
I've no idea if the engine has non-standard parts apart from the head, pistons and braces across the middle main bearings. I hope it is a standard clutch, though.
Looks like a new thread will be required in "Projects" with photos.


Philip Needham
Ashley-bodied TR3; '54 Ford Consul; '55 AC 2-Litre Saloon;'65 850 Mini; '70 Ford Zodiac MkIV; XR3i
'81 911SC Targa, '64 Sabre Six

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